Uhh...before, after, or during the Sugar Bowl? LSU is playing, so expect TONS of people from Baton Rouge down to get drunk and vomit purple and gold along Bourbon and Royal streets. If you're going during the Sugar Bowl, stay the hell away from the Quarter unless you really, really like big crowds.
If you're going before the big game, Jackson Square (just off the quarter) can be nice in a Christmas-y sort of way, and you can make your way down with your women folk to the flea market down towards elysian fields. A few years ago that would actually have some interesting crap down there, and not just clothes and candle holders and other junk women seem to pick over.
There are plenty of good little restaurants, but it depends on how adventurous you are, and how willing you are to stray from the city center. The garden district has some nice little bistros and cafes and whatnot, and there are always good cheap eats near Loyola and Tulane, along with cool record and bookstores, if you're into that sort of thing. You can take the St. Charles streetcar there, and wander around or take it down to Canal for all the big touristy stuff.
Sorry to be so vague, but I haven't been back to N.O. in a few years and I'm hesitant to recommend old haunts for fear that they have been packaged into yet another "New Orleans in a bag" experience (i.e. the Napoleon House where Tennesse Williams used to drink and write).


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